Mileage 615.1 becomes Chapleau as Canadian Pacific Railway contruction makes impossible dream a reality

Chapleau Plan 1886. courtesy Ian Macdonald

Just imagine for a moment that you were moving to Chapleau as the Canadian Pacific Railway tracks were nearing Mileage 615.1. The train stops seven miles east of the fledgling community, and you are told that is the end of the road. Pack up your belongings and children and walk the rest of the way pushing a cart that is provided. Or, perhaps, you might have enjoyed the experience of walking the entire CPR line from Sudbury to Chapleau, and maybe even as far as Port Arthur, a distance of about 2,000 miles.
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 Maybe you were coming to Chapleau from James Bay by canoe with some family members walking along the shore as there was only limited room in the small crafts. Just imagine!

You have learned that Sir John A. Macdonald's government had decided to turn the impossible dream into a reality. Across this vast land called Canada, a nation only since 1867, a transcontinental railway was being built to link it from sea to sea. The Canadian Pacific Railway would stretch from settled sections of the young nation, through the forests, muskeg and rock of Northern Ontario; across the flat lands of the Prairies; through the Rocky Mountains into the valleys of British Columbia to the Pacific Ocean.

First station. courtesy Ian Macdonald

 Welcome to Chapleau. In 1885, instructions were given to put a spur for a car to be set out at Mileage 615.1 on the CPR line, which was in the centre of the new community of Chapleau. This car became the first station, office building and train dispatcher's office. In no time, or so it seemed, a roundhouse with turntable and water tank had been built. A station and office building were under construction and Chapleau had become a town made up of surplus boxcars and tents with a population of about 400 people, ninety-five percent of them men as 1886 began.

 Reports from the time indicate that the first winter was very strenuous for the early citizens of the community. That is really an understatement as they had left their old way of life to build a new one far from any comforts they might have known. Apparently it was also one of those bitterly cold winters, to which Chapleau citizens became accustomed, and disease was also rampant.

 Lambert Lafrance arrived in Chapleau in 1885 and was joined by his wife Adele Roy and children in 1886. According to a biography of Father Albert Burns, their grandson, the train stopped seven miles east of Chapleau and they had to walk the rest of the way pushing a cart with all their worldly belongings. Members of the family still live in Chapleau.

 Rev. Gowan Gillmor, commonly called 'The Tramp' because apparently on many occasions he walked the railway track from Sudbury to Chapleau and on one occasion at least to Port Arthur. Rev. Gillmor, who was in Chapleau in late 1885, conducted a meeting in the partially completed CPR station which resulted in the decision to proceed with the building of St. John's Anglican Church. The first St. John's was on the old tennis court and was opened and dedicated on July 1, 1886 with Rev. Gillmor in attendance.

 As an aside Rev. Gillmor was also instrumental in the establishment of Church of the Epiphany in Sudbury where Thomas Corston was the rector before becoming Bishop of the Anglican Diocese of Moosonee. As many readers will know, Tom was born and raised in Chapleau, the son of Frances (Jardine) and the late Henry 'Chicken' Corston.

 Rev. Gillmor provided an insight into his life and the situation along the CPR line. "I ministered to the construction people numbering about 5,000, holding services as I went along in camps, shanties and box cars and sleeping in these overnight; my experiences were the roughest. These people were from all parts of America and Europe. "Typhoid fever was the scourge of railway construction. Hospitals (Note: Not in any sense, a hospital as we would know one today) were filled with the sick and dying. My experiences ... were varied, solemn and awful."

For many years, he literally lived with the railway men, often pushed a handcar from section house to section house, drank tea from the same pan, ate green bacon from the same plate and often slept under the same blanket, according to Archbishop Robert J. Renison. Although First Nation people had travelled through the Chapleau area, they now began to move to the new community and settle there. Although Rev. John Sanders, perhaps the first aboriginal Anglican priest in Canada, never lived in the the community, members of his family have moving from James Bay by canoe. One of his trips after becoming based at Mattagami, was to go to Flying Post and then reach the Loon (Borden) Lake portage to the Chapleau River into Chapleau. He did conduct services at Chapleau.

 Although there were a number of Roman Catholic Jesuit priests in Chapleau, Father Louis Cote may have been the first to live in Chapleau, and helped establish Sacred Heart Church.

 Notwithstanding the horrendous challenges facing them in the beginning, by the summer of 1886, the tents and shacks which had comprised "Old Chapleau" -- a term used by the settlers to distinguish it from the "New Chapleau" -- were being replaced with permanent structures. The thoroughfares of the community were being set out, as land was cleared and replaced the forests.

John Young who became Earl of Lisgar

 The CPR prepared a diagram of the community including the streets -- north and south after Governors General of Canada and east and west after trees. Interestingly, and I only discovered it as I was examining a copy of the diagram, provided to me by Ian Macdonald, Chapleau has two streets named after the same Governor General -- Young and Lisgar. John Young became the Earl of Lisgar.

 Meanwhile, general stores were established as well as private residences. The CPR had completed its station and office building. It had also built a general store, fueling plant, freight sheds, two boarding houses and residences for local officials. Life was not easy. For example in 1888 an outbreak of diptheria struck and several, including young children, died during the epidemic. Fire was also a constant threat.

 However, these amazing pioneers, who really did carve a community out of the wilderness, never looked back as they established churches, a school, curling and skating rinks, a town band, sports teams, organizations, businesses, and continued to lay the foundations of their community in so many ways despite the obstacles.

 By 1901, with the leadership provided by George Brecken Nicholson, as the first reeve, Chapleau became incorporated as a municipality, and continued to move forward, demonstrating so often that the greatest resource any community has is its people.

 Ian Macdonald, who is always so helpful, has kindly agreed to share his research into the building of Chapleau in a future column. Ian who lived in Chapleau and attended Chapleau Public and Chapleau High schools also worked for the CPR. He is retired head of the department of architecture and professor emeritus at the University of Manitoba. My email is mj.morris@live.ca

Engine 5433 a national treasure symbolizes Chapleau's railway heritage as one of only 48 preserved CPR steam engines

Brass replica of 5433. Courtesy Ian Macdonald

Engine 5433 located in Chapleau since 1964,  one of only 48 of the preserved 3257 Canadian Pacific Railway steam engines, perhaps more than anything else, symbolizes the community's railway heritage.

When I learned that Engine 5433 was one of only 48 CPR engines that have been preserved, and it is in Chapleau, its historical significance struck me, and during this Heritage Week in parts of Canada, including Ontario, I  have been "Googling" and contacting others who know much more about the history of the CPR than I do.

Well, let me digress for a moment with an anecdote about my display of CPR knowledge when I was taking Grade 13 history at Burnhamthorpe Collegiate Institute in Etobicoke.  Mr. Young, our rather excellent teacher was showing us the route of the CPR across Canada on one of those old red classroom wall maps.

I knew that he was showing us the route of the Canadian National Railway across northern Ontario but hesitated to tell him so. Gathering my courage, I raised my hand, and he said, "Yes, Morris." In those days teachers tended to call boys by their surnames.

Standing, I told him politely he was showing us the wrong route, followed by a dead silence in the classroom.

"How do you know Morris?", he asked, to which I replied, "Because I am from Chapleau, sir, and it is on the main CPR line." Mr. Young then invited me to come forward and outline the route. Gathering my courage again,  I did so and added that I knew the names of all the places between Chapleau and Fort William.  Mr. Young said, say them and I did: "Chapleau, Boucher, Esher, Pardee, Musk, Nicholson....and so on." He never held it against me but I sure had to know the history of the CPR as I was usually asked about it. Paybacks can be, well you know..!

How did I know them? Because my grandfather Harry Morris a CPR conductor gave me a timetable, and I learned them and when my mother   Muriel (Hunt) Morris and I were at their Elgin Street home for dinner waiting for him to come in off the road, I would tell them, 'ad nauseam', that  "Grandpa is now at Musk, now Pardee" etc.

Back to Engine 5433 and Chapleau. It arrived in 1964 because of the efforts of Arthur and Nettie Grout who were largely responsible for the creation of the entire Centennial Park. They contacted N.R. Crump, then the CPR president, who even came to Chapleau for the occasion.

Arthur Grout with N.R. Crump

How did they get it to the park after it arrived in Chapleau? I have the story from writings of Wilf Simpson and Dr. Bill Pellow.

Here is a summary. Engine 5433 is a testament to Chapleau's railroading past. The Iron Horse #5433, was proudly placed in the park in 1964, through the initiative and generosity of Arthur and Nettie Grout. This unit actually worked these tracks for many years west of Chapleau. It weighs 275 tons, measures 95 feet long, and hauled 1900 tons in its prime.

To place the engine on location meant building a special spur, or track, straight across from the roundhouse. A building had to be demolished to make way for the spur, which ran right up to the main line on the engine side, and continued on the other side of the main line. With a gang of trackmen, and everything timed to the minute, the spur was laid across the main line. The steam engine was then pushed across by a diesel. Within 30 minutes, the Iron Horse was in place, and the main line cleared again for service.

Also of historical interest is that J.M. "Bud" Park was the engineer on Engine 5433 for its trip from the roundhouse to the park while Earle Freeborn was the engineer on the yard engine diesel.

At the ceremony Samuel Chappise, a full blooded Cree who had come to Chapleau with his parents mostly by canoe from James Bay presented Mr. Crump with a rifle. Wilf Simpson related a story that Mr. Chappise had told him that for the first few weeks after they arrived along the CPR line near Nicholson, every time he heard a train whistle, he would race to the shelter of the forest.

Sam Chappise presentation to Mr Crump

In 1967, Mr. Chappise was invited to sound the 'O Canada' whistle opening the 1967 Centennial Caravan when it passed through Chapleau.

As I so often do, I turned to Ian Macdonald for his expertise on Engine 5433. Ian has a brass replica of this engine in his Winnipeg home. 

"Locomotives were the primary symbol of the railway. Occasionally we would digress ( as we did with the Canadian ) and use an image of an observation car or caboose but nothing really had the visual impact of a locomotive to define the railway. It was ( and is ) truly potent.  It is, therefore, the most logical symbol to use when you're trying to make a statement." Ian wrote in an email.

 "I remember when I first saw 5433 in (the park)  my first reaction was ' perfect'. Why perfect??? Dates generally become 'historic dates' when it can be reasonably said that the world was never the same after.  5433 to me, is important because it is symbolic of the end of the steam era in Chapleau in the same sense that the first GM diesel that went through Chapleau in December 1949 represented a new era which had an enormous impact on the community.

"In this sense, 5433 as an individual locomotive was not the important thing. It was everything required to operate it, maintain it and the infrastructure associated with supporting steam power."

For instance, Ian wrote, "try to envision the number of enginemen in Chapleau during steam power, their families, homes, and an economy generated to support them. Then think of everyone associated in some activity associated with maintenance and operation and interpolate this number into individual families etc. This was important in defining the specific culture of our community and who we were. Who we were is an important aspect of 'community'  and provides reference to who we are.

He explained that "The Mikado was the most dominant locomotive type on the Schreiber Division as the steam era ended and one which most people were familiar with. The era was important for me because the Mikado was designed and manufactured in Canada in direct response to the specific demands of Canadian operating conditions. I like that.

The GM diesel that went through Chapleau in 1949 was built in GM's plant at LaGrange Illiois and was typical of locomotives used everywhere else in North America. There was nothing particularly Canadian about it which didn't change when GM allowed them to be built under licence in Canada. Some people enjoy being reminded of that."

Until I started researching Engine 5433, I never fully realized the tourist attraction it is, and the potential it and all things railway in Chapleau has for the future. I discovered many references to it on web sites along with photos taken by people who had visited Chapleau. It may well be the most photographed site in Chapleau. 

While home for the CHS reunion in 2012, I was of course made aware that proposals have been made to enhance Chapleau's CPR heritage as a tourist attraction and ensure the care and maintenance of Engine 5433. Chapleau is home to a national treasure in having Engine 5433 there -- only one of 48 CPR steam engines that have been preserved. My email is mj.morris@live.ca

Thanks to Ian Macdonald, Dr Bill Pellow and Gerry Bowland director of the Crump Centre, Calgary

Wildlife biologist Vince Crichton provides tips on dealing with wolves in Chapleau urging common sense be used

Vince with friends at CHS reunion 2012

After the Ontario Provincial Police news release on the sighting of a wolf near a Chapleau school made the rounds on the internet, former citizens, including certified wildlife biologist Dr. Vince Crichton shared their memories on wolves within the community. 

Most did not recall any wolves wandering about the streets in the main part of Chapleau, but closer to the outskirts, there were occasions when a wolf had been seen. However, see Vivian (Edwards) Rayson's take on "wolves" in packs on Main Street.




Dr. Crichton, Vince, to all of us who know him well, who was born and raised in Chapleau, also offered some tips on dealing with the situation.




Vince noted: "I have not and I never heard of my dad having talked about it  – bears for sure.  But, this should  not surprise anyone when you look at the habitat around the outside – wolf habitat and there was at one time moose!!!– however there is another possible cause – what with the moose population down substantially thus reduced food supply they may be searching further."




Vince's father, Vince Crichton was also a wildlife biologist, and fish and wildlife supervisor with the Department of Lands and Forest/Ministry of Natural Resources at Chapleau for many years.




Dr. Crichton provided the following tips:




1. do not leave garbage outside but put out in a.m. before pickup – once they see this as a food source they will be back...

2. do not leave dog food outside – even in summer – bears love this stuff also

3. do not leave “fluffy" (your dog)  outside unattended – I have seen and hear of examples all the time of dogs being killed that were left outside

4. for those feeding them – give your head  a shake – you are part of the problem – one now, then 2 and more – those who know where this is being done should report same to OMNR or OPP – I have dealt with such issues here in Manitoba for 40 years and appreciate the problem – more problems however occur in remote communities

5.  should one of these what I will call “habituated animals” happen to be rabid then a bite to a human or a dog then we have serious concerns and expenses – I have had to deal with such scenarios here in Manitoba– one just a few years back near Thompson, Manitoba where the wolf attacked a vehicle and there are photos of it

6. by feeding, this creates a nuisance animal which then may have to be destroyed all because of human stupidity - do  not do things to entice animals to become a nuisance resulting in them having to be destroyed




He added: "Bottom line is Chapleau is in  the bush so don’t panic – use common sense and do not leave material out that will attract them.

 Give Wildlife  a break."



Bob centre, his mother Margaret on right and old friends at reunion

Robert 'Bob' Fife, CTV Ottawa Bureau Chief, who lived near the old power house on Mill Road wrote in an email: "I spotted  a wolf on Mill Road just on the outskirts of town when I was walking home one night.  I never walked so fast to get home."




Cindy Mahon, who lived at Nemegosenda Trailer Park also confirmed that she had seen a wolf in that area -- same area as Bob Fife saw one while walking home.

John Fuller who lived in Chapleau also reported that a family member has seen wolves on this road near the cemetery,




Michael Cecile, who lived at "The Point" where his father Lawless was Chief Ranger for years commented: "I've never seen one in town. I did however see one on the ice at the south end of Chartrand Lake which is about 400 m north of the 3rd Tee box on the Chapleau Golf Course."

Ian Macdonald, retired head of the department of architecture at the University of Manitoba and professor emeritus who lived on King Street wrote that" Bears were frequent visitors, occasional moose, raccoons etc. but no dances with wolves in our neighbourhood.

Henry Byce, whose home was on Aberdeen Street wrote that he had never heard of any "in town", but had seen one near Chapleau General Hospital in the Fall of 2012. "It was a husky sized black wolf in the middle of the road..."

I also never saw or heard of a wolf within the town and I lived on Grey Street for over 40 years, but one day as I was walking out to the Memegos property on the Nebskwashi River, I met a man who asked me if I had seen the auburn wolf who lived there. When I said I had not he replied, "Don't be afraid if you do. He won't hurt you." I never did see the auburn wolf or any other one.

Let's give the final comment on "wolves" in Chapleau to Vivian (Edwards) Rayson who confided that she did see them in town.

Vivian wrote: " I did see quite a few wolves in Chapleau. They usually hung around the pool room or around Desi's corner store. They were quite harmless and they did hang around in packs and they did howl. Just thought I would let you know..."

FOLLOWING UP.. 

Edythe (Rose) Christie on recent library column: "I so enjoyed the article on the library. I was a faithful member when I was young and loved going into that cosy place where Mrs. Beacock presided. She would recommend books for us young people -- Jim Austin was always browsing the shelves for adventure books and of course I was racing through L.M. Montgomery. She was such and inspiration for us in that isolated northern community and so many owe our love of reading to her. Greetings from Vancouver."

Claude Fortin on curling: "Dave Futhey sent me a copy of the Chapleau Express!!! nice surprise...Your article on curling was a great read..It was nice to have seen Pat (Bamford) again after all these years...He was a great coach..and even all these years later, I am still curling, two leagues here in Esquimalt Curling Club in Victoria, BC. ..heading out in an hour to pick up our team as we are in a bonspiel at Glen Meadows, near Victoria Airport..It's a private club, like Chapleau's original one used to be..You can take your drinks on the ice in this club...lol..."

Thanks to all the contributors on wolves in Chapleau. My email is mj.morris@live.ca