Wilf Simpson described Chapleau as "thriving community" in the 1970s as trend to tear down and renew community changed its physical face more than any time in its history

from l Boo Hong, R J Lemieux, Ken Schroeder, Wilf, unknown, Gordon Bolduc,Rita Morin

Chapleau was a "thriving community" on the edge of the Chapleau Game Preserve, the largest game sanctuary in the Western Hemisphere in 1977, Wilf Simpson wrote in a community profile, prepared for the Chapleau Chamber of Commerce and the Township of Chapleau. 

Wilf served as the township's deputy clerk for 22 years, and previously had been the editor of the Chapleau Post, where his father, Arthur Simpson had been the editor and publisher for many years. 

He was also very well known for the Wilf Simpson Orchestra which played at countless number of dances in Chapleau, and was also a member of other musical groups. 

After receiving a photo recently from Vince Crichton of Wilf playing with a Chapleau High School orchestra, with  the members attending the school at the same time I did, I reread Wilf's profile, last published in 1977, where he shares his observations on the people, life and times of the community from its beginnings in 1885.

Wilf notes that the community was named after Sir Joseph Adolphe Chapleau who had served as prime minister of Quebec, secretary of state for Canada and Lieutenant Governor of Quebec.

He writes that one of the first uses of the Canadian Pacific Railway was in the movement of troops west to quell the Riel rebellion. At this time, "the steel had not been laid past Missanabie, some 65 miles west of Chapleau and it was necessary for the troops to detrain at Missanabie and move the guns and equipment across the ice on Dog Lake and entrain on another train to continue their journey west".

He added that some of the equipment went through the ice and in  1977 it was believed there were still some relics to be found on the bottom of Dog Lake.

Wilf refers to Chapleau as a "robust community" before the gold rush that brought Timmins and the Porcupine area into prominence. A fascinating anecdote, Wilf told, at least to me, was the story of Robert J. Renison, a young Anglican priest who later became bishop of the Diocese of Moosonee, referring to Chapleau as the only "window" of the north. It was necessary for miners, trappers and surveyors to "trek through the bush to Chapleau to receive or mail letters and to use the modern railway facilities to send telegrams" after 1885 when the CPR arrived in Chapleau.

He also noted that many of Chapleau's First Nations citizens are descendants of those who brought their families "on the arduous canoe trip from James Bay up to Chapleau via the Albany waterway. It may seem strange to some when I say 'up' to Chapleau but the waters of the Chapleau River flow north to Hudson Bay".

Chapleau also played a leading role in the construction of the Grand Trunk Railway, now Canadian National. When the right of way was being cleared and road bed being made ready, food and materials were shipped to Chapleau on the CPR. Wilf explains that the materials were unloaded at Chapleau and from there shipped to Elsas in barges and boats -- adding that "the route is still open and makes a fine canoe trip" with excellent fishing along the waterway. 

Wilf writes that "isolation plagued Chapleau for over half a century" as except for the CPR there was no way in and out --- except of course by the waterways!

However, he writes about Arthur Grout and Earle Sootheran chatering a plane to fly out to the Goose River, catch a mess of speckled trout and present it to the steward on the Royal Train carrying King George VI and Queen Elizabeth on their Royal Tour on May 24, 1939. (As an aside, I just read this morning that the Lethbridge Hurricanes of the Western Hockey League, rivals of the Kootenay Ice from where I live in Cranbrook, presented season tickets to Prince William, their great grandson, and his wife Kate for the upcoming season.)

Wilf writes that it may be of some interest to know that in those years when cars were shipped to Chapleau on the CPR as there was no highway until 1949, Chapleauites going on vacation, would ship their cars to Sudbury, and off they went from there.

"The cost by freight on a flat car was less than $100.00. A small thing -- but not so small when one considers the CPR excursion fare to Toronto was $8.55 return. Passengers were welcomed with open arms in those days".

By 1977, when Wilf wrote his final profile, Chapleau was no longer isolated, and was known as the "Crossroads of the North" with highways linking the community to the outside world. (There was also daily air and bus service and the passenger trains were still running.)

Chapleau boasted a "fine shopping area" a movie theatre, two hotels and five motels, and  an "excellent safe supervised beach and playground".

Wilf writes that the 1970s "saw more changes in the face of Chapleau than any years in its history and "the trend to tear down and renew" was continuing. Gone were the old CPR station and the large storage ice houses, the old "Horseshoe" bridge, the old Chapleau High School, the Sisters of St Mary Convent, Sacred Heart school, YMCA and annex, part of the CPR shops facing Lorne Street, the old firehall, town hall and town garage, the Chapleau Memorial Community Arena and Lady Minto Hospital.

In the same period, between 1966 and 1978, the new physical face of Chapleau included a new hospital, separate schools, low rental housing, high school, bridge and overpass, water plant, Chapleau Recreation Centre, Chapleau Civic Centre, Cedar Grove Lodge for Senior Citizens and a new golf clubhouse as well as a new CPR station. A housing development also was well underway in the Planer Area and planning for the new bridge and road to that area started as were those for a new sewage treatment facility. The Chapleau Municipal, now Gene Bernier Airport, was in use, and by 1979, the runway had been extended.

"It is now possible to have lunch in Chapleau and dinner in downtown Toronto after a leisurely flight...", Wilf wrote.

He told his readers that "Chapleau is a friendly town. You will get a friendly 'Hi' on the Main Street from someone you never saw before. Our people are eager to help the visitor.. and the northern air and waters are yours to enjoy..."

My thanks to Joy (Evans) Heft and Michael and Alison (McMillan) McMullen for making available a copy of Wilf's profile and to Vince Crichton for the photo. My email is mj.morris@live.ca

Chapleau Game Preserve established 85 years ago 'brainchild' of pioneer Chapleau merchant and fur dealer William McLeod

The Chapleau Game Preserve, (the word Crown was added later), following extensive efforts by Chapleau pioneer William McLeod, was established by an Order-in-Council of the Ontario Government dated May 27, 1925.

In a paper titled 'History of the Chapleau Crown Game Preserve' written about 1964 by Vince Crichton, he says that the game preserve was "the brainchild of the late William McLeod, pioneer merchant and fur buyer of Chapleau."

As I was thumbing through William 'Bill' McLeod's book, 'The Chapleau Game Preserve History, Murder and Other Tales', looking for ideas for Chapleau Moments, while reading about the game preserve, I realized that it was now 85 years old, so immediately contacted Bill, William McLeod's grandson, to get permission to refer to his book in this column, Bill immediately agreed.

Bill writes that his grandfather lived in Chapleau from 1899 until he died in 1940. "On his letterhead, he described himself as a 'Dealer in raw furs' and 'A general merchant who sold groceries, boots and shoes, dry goods, canoes and trappers' supplies.'"

Mr. McLeod's store was located on Lansdowne Street, and after selling it in the 1920s to Edgar Pellow, he moved to a long one-storey building that had once been used as a warehouse. BIll's father Borden McLeod used the building when he was in the fur business between 1940 and 1960.

Bill discovered a letter that his grandfather wrote to the Ontario Minister of Mines Charles McCrea, who had responsibility at the time for fur trapping, dated July 23, 1923, outlining the game preserve concept.

It reads as follows: "First, as a protection for the fur bearing animals in this north country, nothing better could be done than to set aside certain areas where no trapper would be allowed to hunt. This could be very easily accomplished owing to the country being sub-divided by railways running east and west and rivers flowing north and south, which would serve as boundaries if such a plan was adopted. To protect such areas it would be necessary to have men as guardians permanently employed."

Mr. McLeod had submitted a 3100 word submission on the fur trade in Northeastern Ontario to Mr. McCrea, divided into three specific areas: objectives, problems and solutions. The game preserve concept was not included in the brief, but was in a letter.

For anyone interested in the fur trade I highly recommend that you read Bill's book. His grandfather made an immense contribution to having laws made regarding the trapping of fur bearing animals in Ontario. Vince Crichton noted in his 1976 book 'Pioneering in Northern Ontario' that almost all of Mr. McLeod's recommendations were eventually passed into law.

Once established. the game preserve was bordered on the west by the Canadian Pacific Railway, on the north by the Algoma Central Railway, on the east by the Canadian National Railway and on the south by the Kebsquasheshing (Chapleau) River. The four small communities on each corner of the game preserve were Franz, Oba, Elsas and Chapleau. Bill notes that the total area is roughly 2,000,000 acres and Elsas was not one of the original corner communities. Agate was.

Bill shares details on the major issues to be addressed after the preserve was established including what to do about people whose lives would be changed forever by it; secondly to get some idea about the extent in which the animal population had been decimated within its boundaries and how to enforce the hunting and trapping prohibition inside the preserve.

While Mr. McLeod was most assuredly the major proponent of the game preserve, it appears that he was assisted by G.B. Nicholson, who was the first reeve of Chapleau from 1901 to 1913 and then served several terms as a member of parliament as well as being a prominent Chapleau businessman. Bill suspects that Mr. Nicholson may have opened doors and made contacts for his grandfather. They were good friends as well.

Bill also writes about how impressive the accomplishments were give the isolation of Chapleau in the 1920s, and access to the outside world was limited to the railway. "It was impossible to do a day's business in Sudbury without staying there for two nights. Sault Ste. Marie and Timmins might just as well have been in another province, it took so long to get to either of these cities from Chapleau."

But his very determined grandfather was greatly responsible for changing the face of an industry. Bill admits that "it is still hard for him to comprehend" but Mr. McLeod did it, joining those other great Chapleau pioneers who made such a significant impact on the history of Northern Ontario. I highly recommend Bill's book, and thanks to him for letting me share some of it in Chapleau Moments.

Photo od William McLeod from the McLeod family collection

BUDD Car trip between Sudbury, Chapleau, White River 'a best kept travel secret', Bill McLeod reports

William 'Bill' McLeod says that one of Ontario's best kept travel secrets is the VIA Rail train that runs between Sudbury and White River, Ontario. along the Canadian Pacific Railway main line, which also forms the southwest border of the Chapleau Crown Game Preserve between Chapleau and Franz.

Writing in his 2004 book, 'The Chapleau Game Preserve -- History, Murder and Other Tales', Bill, who was born and raised in Chapleau notes: "Actually the train is not really a train at all. It is a Budd Car which combines a diesel locomotive, baggage car and passenger car into a single unit."

Given the announcement that the cars are going to be refurbished and a renewed interest in passenger train travel, I asked Bill, who has been a friend of mine since childhood, if I could do an article based on the chapter in his book. Bill. and his wife Sheryl, have made the trip on more than one occasion. He agreed.

Bill relates that the "BUDD" as everyone calls it "stops anywhere to pick up and drop off vacationers, trappers, hunters, fishermen, prospectors, cottagers, and anyone else doing business or pleasure along the line. The crew and passengers, most of whom know each other, are one big happy family who are quick to make strangers feel comfortable and at home".

"The little train goes through some of Ontario's most beautiful and unspoiled wilderness. Hundreds of lakes, streams and rivers roll endlessly by. Most of them nameless."

Bill points out many of the points of interest along the route, sharing how many of the places got their names, including a former logging community named after Dr. J.J, Sheahan, a revered physician who served the people of Chapleau for many years.

The train's first scheduled stop is at Cartier, about 35 miles west of Sudbury, once a divisional point on the CPR with an old station and "classic waiting room worth a look."

After passing Metagama, the train reaches Biscotasing, commonly called Bisco which is a very old village. It was an important community during the building of the CPR and was at one time a Hudson's Bay Post. Bill writes that another bonus at Bisco is the general store, owned by his grandfather, William McLeod, some time in the 1920s and in fact Mr. McLeod may have built it.

Next is Ramsey, also a former lumber centre, and then Sultan, which was the second largest community after Chapleau between Sudbury and White River. Between Sultan and Kormak the train crosses the height of land where all the streams now flow north, eventually to James Bay.

The train crew changes at Chapleau, and after crossing the Kebsquasheshing (Chapleau) River and for the next 81 miles, the area on the right of the train will be the Chapleau Game Preserve. About eight miles west of Chapleau, at Esher, the first whistlestop, the train crosses the height of land again where all the streams and rivers now flow west to Lake Superior.

Bill's grandfather, William McLeod, was instrumental in having the game preserve established. The details are in his book.

Next is Nicholson, named after G.B. Nicholson, lumber merchant, first Reeve of Chapleau and Member of Parliament in early part of 20th century. Nicholson is on north shore of Lake Windermere, a huge body of water that once saw millions of logs boomed to the lumber mill in the community.

Bill notes that the "biggest little town" between Chapleau and White River is Missanabie. If you watch carefully you may see the Missanabie Hotel.

Upon reaching Franz the Algoma Central Railway crosses the Canadian Pacific Railway. Other places along the way include Bolkow, Shumka, Dalton, Localsh and Amyot. In his book, Bill provides comments about the claim to fame about each of these places, particularly a number of murders and a strange disappearances that occurred along that portion of the rail line.

The end of the line for the trip is White River which was once considered the coldest place in Canada where it is said the temperature once dropped to 72 degrees below zero Fahrenheit. White River is also the home of the original 'Winnie the Pooh.'

Bill provides much more information about this trip in his book 'The Chapleau Game Preserve -- History, Murder, and Other Tales.' He also wrote "
'Murder in the Schoolhouse', the story of the 1954 slaying of Steve Klapouschak, the teacher in the one-room school in Dalton.

His newest book is headed to the publisher soon. Watch for details.

Having travelled this route so many times many years ago from Chapleau to our family's camp at Healy and to Missanabie where I worked one summer, and the Chapleau to Sudbury portion more times than I can remember, Bill brought back many great memories. His book is a good read and you can contact him at wemcleod@sympatico.ca to order a copy.

BILL McLEOD on the new old rink, the old old rink and pot bellied stoves

A note from Michael: Bill McLeod, one of my oldest friends from Chapleau shares some amusing insights into happenings at Chapleau rinks down through the years. Bill is a retired professor from Cambrian College, Sudbury, ON, and is the author of numerous books including 'The Chapleau Game Preserve: History, Murder, and Other Tales' and 'Murder in the Schoolhouse, Subury, Ontario's Last Hanging'. Thanks Bill.


Bill McLeod writes: Enjoyed your hockey comments... Was it the Lorne Riley the goalie who lived two doors north of us on Aberdeen Street? My memories of the old rinks are pretty hazy. My dad used to take me to the hockey games on Saturday nights in the old, old rink. It had to have been a terrible fire trap.

In the new old rink, built in our time, I used to play hockey on Saturday mornings and sometimes it was VERY cold. But back to the old, old rink. When my dad had the motel he and his dear friend Tony cachagee used to spend a lot of time in the office. Those two guys must have had fun childhoods. They would tell and re-tell the same old stories and laugh like hell every time.

Sometimes they only needed one word or phrase to bring up some long-forgotten caper. One tale that I remember quite clearly was what they used to do for excitement at the old. old rink. Both men's and women's dressing rooms were heated with pot-bellied stoves. For their idea of fun the boys used to sneak into the girls' change room, pee on the hot stove and run like hell so they wouldn't get caught Of course it was always somebody else.

Not Borden or Tony! I was going to post this on your blog but thought you should decide whether it was OK. Bill

LORNE RILEY on hockey as part of roots and national identity

A note from Michael: I am so delighted to post Lorne Riley's thoughts on hockey. Lorne is a former student of mine but more importantly, he is the son of Lorne Riley mentioned in my earlier post as one of the great players and arguably the best coach ever in the history of Chapleau!. And Lorne, as an aside, your relative, Jack Morris (no relation to the writer) was a pretty awesome hockey player in his day!

Lorne Riley said...
Warm memories indeed. And I agree hockey is one of the ties than binds this great nation. To this day I remember those games...huddled under the heaters (if you were lucky) or jammed against the glass by the eiderdown press of the crowd (if you were even luckier). The atmosphere was electric during the play-offs. Local rivalries intensied ...Wawa for the Juniors, Timmins for the Intermediates.

But I fear the tie that binds is fraying. While the five-year run of the Canadian Junior team solidifies our position as the top hockey nation in the world, local enrolments for minor hockey are down dramatically across Ontario. In the north, a shrinking economy and population base is a factor, as are new-age diversions like the internet, video games, satellite TV...things that we never had to contend with.

Another contributor to minor hockey's gradual downfall is the staggering cost. Equipment, rink rental, club fees and travelling costs have gone through the roof. Even the most passionate hockey Moms and Dads think twice about footing the bill. A changing demographic, with cultural roots more closely tied to cheaper sports like soccer, is also eroding interest and participation in Canada's national pasttime.Is Canadian hockey in danger of extinction? Not at all. Is it at risk?

Yes. As is the community spirit and love for the game that not so long ago inspired 1,000 hardy souls in a town of just over 3,000 to jam into the local barn in -30 weather to cheer on their team. We need to recall those days, not only to enshrine them in our memory but to use them to encourage parents and children, in small towns and big cities across Canada not to lose touch with our roots and by extension our national identity.Go Huskies Go!
January 22, 2009 7:44 AM