Pioneers carved Chapleau out of wilderness as "ribbons of steel arrived in 1885

If you had been suspended high above Chapleau in 1885, all you would have seen at first glance would have been a virgin forest, many lakes and rivers and two thin ribbons of steel that had been laid in a cleared section and were cutting through this vast uninhabited area of Canada.

Vince Crichton tells us in his book "Pioneering in Northern Ontario" that the ribbons of steel were rails of the Canadian Pacific Railway leading 381 miles west to Fort William and 170 miles southeast to Sudbury.

Recently after ten years of writing Chapleau Moments weekly I have been spending time with Vince's book, the Richard Brownlee Papers as well as material on the  Chapleau Library site, compiled primarily by Hugh Kuttner and the late Doug Greig.

Vince noted that there were very few signs of life except along the railroad, and at the trading posts. You may have seen Cree and Ojibway trappers in canoes going to and from their trapping grounds with their winter's catch of fur.

When it became clear that Chapleau would be a terminal of the railroad some homes were built on the hill in the vicinity of the Lady Minto Hospital, opened in 1914. This was called "Old Chapleau" and a long board walk connected it to the CPR station area. 

Meanwhile, T.A. Austin had opened his store in a tent in that area and Mr. Brownlee who arrived in February 1886 a barber shop. Later in 1886 both had moved to buildings on Birch street which remains the community's main business district to this day. Several stores had been opened by 1887.

public school

Fast forward to 1914 and Chapleau had  two schools, three churches, a hospital, two doctors, an Opera House, three confectionery and ice cream shops and a variety of commercial enterprises to fill the needs of families."  A water works system had been installed and electricity provided. The Town Hall also opened in 1914. The YMCA was completed by 1908.

Vince described heating and cooking in homes.

"All of the houses were kept warm with a pot bellied stove with a large gaping mouth through which the fire was banked for the night with a copious amount of good white birch. The kitchen stove on which the lady of the house cooked and was her pride and joy also burned wood"'

In 1945 when my mother Muriel E (Hunt) Morris and my grandparents Edythe and George Hunt and I moved into our house on Grey Street, a wood stove primarily heated the house and my grandmother did all the cooking on it for several years. The house was never warmer, and her meals were awesome too!! 

Mr. Fortin brought us the supply of wood each year.

first station circa 1886

Mr. Brownlee, in his own handwriting refers to an article about Chapleau written to mark the Royal Tour in 1939.. "Considering its wild surroundings the stranger is agreeably surprised to find a spot so remote from what he calls civilization so completely up-to-date as Chapleau -- no shack town!"

The winters were "long, cold and exhilarating.." according to Vince. Not much change there !!

In a real sense the pioneers of Chapleau carved a community out of the wilderness.

Bill Pellow delivery circa 1911

I was delighted to read the article in the Chapleau Express announcing the completion of the first phase of a Downtown Revitalization Project.  My email is mj.morris@live.ca

Canadian Pacific Railway kept pace with Chapleau in community's first 50 years

By 1888 Chapleau had a public library housed in a passenger coach with over two thousand volumes of "fine literature", according to a handwritten history of the community's first 50 years in the Richard Brownlee Papers.

The books were provided by Sir William Van Horne, president of the Canadian Pacific Railway, a project that he apparently undertook in other communities too.

In browsing through the article, I decided to start with the anecdote about the donation by Mr. Van Horne which showed his interest in much more than just establishing Chapleau as a railway divisional point with a station, round house, etc. His interest in providing reading material is a story in itself for another day.

Back to the railway, the article says the "round house, a necessity in a railroad town had no doors and when the snow piled up, the section men shovelled it out. The oil was kept outside and had to be heated on stoves. The railroaders had a hard winter in those early days but they were hardy men".

D. O. Payette. who arrived in 1904 put living in Chapleau in context in those early years in an interview with the article writer.

Mr. Payette commented: "At least one half of Chapleau was bush. There were no electric lights and coal oil was used almost exclusively for lighting purposes. The stores and hotels used acetylene gas. The water supply was had from pitcher pumps which drew the water from well points driven into the ground at varying depths."

However, Chapleau continued to make progress as did the CPR by enlarging the shops and round house, building station, freight sheds, large ice house and building several dwellings.

Fast forward to the 1930s and the writers decided to "tell you someting of this busy little railroad town. It had become a divisional point where entire train crews were exchanged as well as engines which filled up with coal for the next part of the journey.

in 1937 an addition was added to the shops to house new enlarged engines. A new coal chutes was built at the north end of the Chapleau yards and it was there that all engines were filled with coal.

They added that "Like all such towns its prosperity depends a great deal upon the railroad. When the railway is busy, the town booms and a slump in the 'road' means a slump in the town's commerce". 

But railroading was not the only industry and that is a story for another day. Thanks again to Margaret Rose (Payette) and Bobby Fortin for the loan of Richard Brownlee Papers. My email is mj.morris@live.ca

NOTE Thanks to all who kept me informed about the recent storm, with special thanks to Lee Martin for photos of tree in my old yard on Grey Street. I planted that tree after the forest fire of 1948.

Exploratory land surveys to determine route of CPR in many ways as "historically significant as construction of railway itself"

Surveyors at River Aux Sables 1876 National Archives Canada

Ian Macdonald and Michael McMullen share their research into the one of the main challenges of building the Canadian Pacific Railway which was to determine the final route to be taken  across Canada. In this article they focus on Northern Ontario with special attention on Chapleau. They look specifically at the exploratory land surveys. Two surveys informed the final decision in the  Chapleau region. What a daunting task it was, and they quote Pierre Berton to put it into context, Thank you Ian and Michael for sharing this insight  into an important part of our history. MJM My email is mj.morris@live.ca


By Ian Macdonald and Michael McMullen
One of the main challenges in the building the Canadian Pacific Railway (CPR) was the determination of the final route to be taken across the country. This was even more so in Northern Ontario where granite, muskeg and major rivers had to be dealt with. The railway survey crews had to carry out survey options, recommend a final route, then survey the approved route for construction, and as well, complete a townsite plan for each of the new towns to be built along the line to service the needs of the railway.

In his book The Great Railway Illustrated published in 1972 , Pierre Berton wrote:
“No life was harsher than that suffered by members of the Canadian Pacific Survey crews. None was less rewarding. Underpaid, over-worked, exiled from their families, deprived of their mail, sleeping in slime and snowdrifts, suffering from sunstroke, frostbite, scurvy, fatigue, and tensions that always rise to the surface when weary and dispirited men are thrown together for long periods of isolation, the surveyors kept on, year after year. They explored great sections of Canada, scaling mountains that never before had been climbed, crossing lakes that had never known a white man’s paddle, and fording rivers not yet on any map. They walked with a uniform stride developed through years of habit, measuring the distances as they went, checking altitudes with an aneroid barometer slung around the neck and examining the land with a practised gaze, always seeing in the mind’s eye the finished line of steel. In the first six years of the Canadian Pacific Survey, forty-six thousand miles of Canada were reconnoitred in this manner”

The extensive exploratory land surveys that preceded construction of the Canadian Pacific Railway were in many ways as historically significant as construction of the railway itself. Canada was not yet four years old when Sir Sanford Fleming took charge as engineer-in-chief of the Canadian Pacific Railway in April 1871 and began the enormous task of establishing a route for the great overland railway. Surveys in every region of the new nation began in 1871 and continued until the end of 1876. Cost of the surveys totalled $3.136,615.75 which would be approximately $57,000,000.00 in to-day’s dollars.

Surveying activity associated with the Canadian Pacific Railway was documented in a 430-page report published in 1877 titled, Report on Surveys and Preliminary Operations on the Canadian Pacific Railway up to January 1877. This landmark report should be required reading for anyone trying to develop a full appreciation of Canada’s early years. This article reviews that document with a specific focus on the early surveys on the height of land region of Northern Ontario including Chapleau.

In 1871 the survey teams classified Northern Ontario north and east of Lake Superior as “terra incognita” or unexplored territory. This roadless country was accessed mainly by canoe with major lakes and rivers being the main reference points. The first step was to pierce the interior by a chain of connected explorations and actual measurements, both of distance and height. Survey activity was divided into the Mountain Region, the Prairie Region and the Woodland Region. The Woodland region embraced all territory between Fort Garry (Winnipeg) and Montreal including Northern Ontario.

Proposed early routes 1857 Sandford Flemin Report

Two important exploratory surveys informed the decision for the final route of the CPR in the Chapleau region. Both surveys covered the territory from Pic River near present day Heron Bay on Lake Superior to the then proposed Eastern Terminus of the Division at Lac Amable du Fond approximately 30 miles south east of the present-day City of North Bay. One survey explored a northern route from Pic River to the northern side of Lake Nipissing and another explored a southern option.

The northern exploratory surveys were carried out in 1873 and 1874 by W.A. Austin in the west and T. Ridout in the east in 1876 who would later have a railway siding east of Chapleau named after him. This route began at the east end of Lake Nipissing following the valley of the Sturgeon River and overland to the Vermilion River and on to the narrows at Lake Missinaibi. The route then descended from that point down the valley of the River Oba and finally to the valley of the Pic River and Lake Superior. Conditions for rail construction recorded in these surveys were very favourable and the route was actually preferred by Sandford Fleming.

The southern route originating at the proposed terminus south of Lake Nipissing at Lac Amable du Fond ran in a northwest line to Pic River on Lake Superior and consisted of several surveys carried out in different years. The majority of these surveys were carried out under the direction of J.L.P. O’Hanly and Charles Horetsky in 1876.

The first leg ran from the south of Lake Nipissing to Contin’s Bay on the French River and from there northwest to River Aux Sables in the Mississagi Provincial Forest. The route than ran from River Aux Sables to Wenebegon Lake, west from there to the headwaters of the Montreal River and on to the Michipicoten River at the southern end of Whitefish Lake south of present day Missinaibi. The final leg of the survey ran from this point to the Pic River on Lake Superior. Major river crossings on this route included the, Mississagi, Wenebegon, Little Jackpine, Shaquamka, Michipicoten and Magpie Rivers.

During one of these surveys, J.L.P. O’Hanly, while camped at Wenebegon Lake, recorded that the Ojibway guides from the area informed him that a short distance north of where they were that the water flowed in the opposite (Arctic) direction referring, of course, to the swampy plains forming the plateau of the height of land. O’Hanly concluded in his report that “a much better route would be found on the Western Division without materially increasing the distance, by carrying the line ten to twelve miles further north”. He goes on to say that “ the advantages of the proposed change seem to be that instead of crossing the numerous streams flowing into Lake Superior in deep valleys, involving steep gradients, heavy bridging and other works, its proper direction will be in rear of their sources”.

Subsequent deliberations concerning the route are known only to history but the decision for the final route of the Canadian Pacific Railway clearly heeded O’Hanly’s recommendations and the final route was located on the height of land ranging between twelve to twenty miles north of the original exploratory survey. This final route thus avoided major bridge construction over the Wenebegon, Mississagi, Little Jackpine, Shamaqua and Michipicoten Rivers averting these major expenditures in a period of very limited resources, reducing construction time and shortening the route. One of the distinguishing features of the roadbed between Cartier and White River to-day is a lack of large-scale bridges.

William Cornelius Van Horne officially became General Manager of the Canadian Paciific Railway on January 2, 1882 and amongst his first decisions was to commit to the Lake Superior/ Height of Land route. The notion of an eastern terminus at Lac Amable du Fond was abandoned and re- established on the north side of Lake Nipissing at Callander Ontario immediately east of North Bay.

Early division point locations Omer Lavallee "Van Horne's Road

Early divisional point locations were set out approximately 125 miles apart west from Callander. Winnibagon which was later to be re-named Chapleau was roughly located at mile 620 (620 miles from Montreal). Subsequent more specific survey information would re-position it at Mile 615.1. Divisional points at the 493rd, 747th and 874th miles would eventually be Cartier, White River and Schreiber.

Chapleau Townsite survey 1884 Ian Macdonald

Survey crews setting out the final route of the roadbed arrived in the Chapleau region in the fall of 1884 and staked out the one-mile square townsite for the Chapleau townsite. (see image and caption above) Unencumbered by major bridge construction, roadbed construction along the height of land proceeded from Cartier to Chapleau between May 1884 and February 1885 at a rate of approximately three quarters of a mile a day. Construction of the railroad in this region was completed on May 6, 1885 when the westbound tracklaying crews under Harry Abbott connected with the eastbound crews under the direction of John Ross twenty-nine miles east of White River at Girdwood on May 6, 1885. The surveyors would have been pleased.

CPR survey team at HBC sub post 1884

Tawagami selected as CPR divisional point but "lakes and swamps" saw it moved to Chapleau in 1885

CPR station 1886

The Canadian Pacific Railway divisional point that became Chapleau was supposed to be at Tawagami, seven miles east of the present community, but because of the lakes and swamps about there, it was situated where it is in 1885.

According to an article in the Richard Brownlee papers, among the very first "white women" who moved to Chapleau were a Mrs. S.B. Eyrie and her daughter Edna who became Mrs. Cressey, they arrived from Tawagami in September 1885.

By the end of 1885, there were about 400 citizens, most of them men. There were some women as residents by this time but many had left for the winter.

Apparently the Eyrie's had a boarding house but a "great bush fire" swept through that section of the fledgling community, and as a result they lived in tents  for about a year.

Also, as Chapleau was being established people lived in two rows of boxcars, one called Goslin Avenue and the other Stovepipe Avenue.

At the same time T.A. Austin set up shop in a tent in "old Chapleau" near the site of where the Lady Minto Hospital was opened in 1914. In February 1886, Mr. Brownlee who was about 18 arrived, and had a barber shop beside Mr. Austin's place of business.

Later in 1886, Mr. Austin built the first store on Birch Street where the Dominion store was later located, and he added a leanto for Mr. Brownlee's barber shop.

T A Austin store 1886

Tom Carr and his family were among the first citizens and they ran the first boarding house, popularly known as the "Pig's Ear," located across from where Smith and Chapple was located. Actually it would have been located across from the Austin store which had changed location. This later became Beamish and Smith then Smith and Chapple, now Chapleau Village Shops.

JMcN Austin then Beamish and Smith then Smith and Chapple, now Chapleau Village Shops

 Mr. Noel de Tilley "had the honour of driving the first engine into the station, that was in the autumn of 1885." Mr. and Mrs. de Tilley lived in a cottage next door to Tom Carr's boarding house.

Most reports I have seen over the years give credit to Mrs. Noel de Tilley for the naming of the community. The article I am using says that "Mr. R. Duschene, the civil engineer found it quite a problem to select names for all the places along the line and turned to her for an inspiration. She suggested that they name this town after (Joseph Adolphe) Chapleau, the Conservative member of parliament and Chapleau it became."

Very active in the community, before the Roman Catholic church was built, it was at their home that mass was sung on Sunday. Visiting priests also made their home with them,

That first winter was apparently bitterly cold and disease was rampant but these first citizens who had left their former way of life to create a new community in the wilderness. And they did. 

A boxcar became the first station, office building and train dispatcher's office. Very quickly a roundhouse with turntable and water tank had been erected. By 1886 a station had been completed.

The article noted that these "sturdy railroaders had a hard winter though, for the roundhouse ... had no doors. When there were snowstroms the section men had to come an shovel the snow away. There was no storehouse for oil. It was kept outside in large barrels and had to be heated before it could be used. For valve oil tey had to use tallow. ...'

I have included a photo of Bill Pellow's delivery wagon as a reminder of how deliveries were made. J.T. Serre made deliveries by dog team and sled in the winter months.

Amazingly, by the end of 1886, churches had been established, and an active social and sports life were underway. By 1889 they were curling and playing hockey, and a brass band had been started. Chapleau's first newspaper The North Star was being published. Mr. Brownlee also noted that the first school with 12 pupils had been started.

On a personal note, I am fascinated with these early years in the history of Chapleau, and so much appreciate having the Richard Brownlee papers, kindly loaned to me by Margaret Rose (Payette) and Bobby Fortin, to help me connect the dots from in the beginning. My email is mj.morris@live.ca

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Louis Bignucolo retired as CPR engineer after 42 years of 'railroading' at Chapleau

Louis Bignucolo who arrived in Canada from Italy  worked for the Canadian Pacific Railway for 42 years before retiring in 1960. 

At a party where he was honoured, Walter Steed, another pioneer citizen, commented that "Railroading was a hard job in my day," adding that Mr. Bignucolo was among "survival of the fittest."

Starting as a fireman he worked his way up to engineer.

But Mr. Bignucolo was not always a railroader after arriving in Chapleau. Mr. Steed noted that prior to joining the CPR, Mr. Bignucolo had been a contraactor, and had participated in the building of the horseshoe bridge.

Another article about Mr. Bignucolo in the Sudbury Star says he was involved in the building of the power dam for the Chapleau Electric Light and Power Company.

He worked with his brother Joseph who went on to become a major contractor in Chapleau responsible for the construction of a great number of buildings including businesses and houses but that is a story for another day.

Upon arriving in Canada from Italy  Mr. Bignucolo worked for a short time at the International Nickel Company in Sudbury.

The Sudbury Star reported that when Mr. Bignucolo stepped off Train Number 7 in August 1960, he was greeted by a large welcoming party including family, friends and CPR officials that included Assistant Superintendent Elmer Fisher, Master Mechanic George Machen, Roadmaster William Madigan and Chapleau native Alcide Small, representing the Brotherhood of Locomotive Engineers. Mr. Small later became Superintendent of the Schreiber Division.

A highlight of Mr. Bignucolo's railroad career was being selected as a crew member for the Royal Train carrying King George VI and Queen Elizabeth on their Royal Tour, from Chapleau to White River, in May 1939. Robert Carmichael was the engineer.

Mr. Bignucolo and his wife held a retirement party at their Lansdowne Street home. A bit later Mr. Bignucolo was honoured at a party held by the Brotherhood of Locomotive Engineers where Mr. Steed spoke. L.A. 'Les' McMillan was the master of ceremonies on this occasion.

At this party, Mr. Fisher, the assistant superintendent, commented that Chapleau had a "great bunch of railroaders" among them Mr. Bignucolo and many others.

I have been browsing through railroad stories compiled by the late Doug Greig, and am fascinated by them. They bring back memories from my own childhood, and my grandfather Harry Morris, who retired as conductor in 1952, a contemporary of Mr. Bignucolo and others who started "railroading" in Chapleau during the early years of the 20th Century.

In his retirement Mr. Bignucolo planned to fish, hunt, garden  .. and yes, even travel. My email is mj.morris@live.ca

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